Solo

Solo 21-23 Sept 2007

The strains of the melodious Bengawan Solo may have faded but the place still resonates with a quaint charm of subtle confidence of its heritage and culture. It's not just the style of the 5-star Lorin Hotel (obviously pandering to touristy palates) which we stayed in, though it's as good an introduction as any despite its 'in-your-faceness' - with the angklung (a bamboo musical instrument) proudly taking its pride of place facing the hotel entrance.

It's a nice place to stay in really, and changed my idea of wood decor being too much of a depressing overkill in an enclosed place. Take away the ornately carved TV display and the room looks a perfect model of Balinese comfort that you can replicate to a soothing effect at home ...

Sad to say that the hotel room was one where I spent the most hours in besides the stifling (emotionally) conference room where the Principals' Retreat was held. Fortunately, my trip was 'saved' by the dance performance at Diamond Restaurant, the most expensive in Solo, imitating a puppet show. A male performer wearing a bushy black beard framing a babirusa-like snout was the most fascinating sight until the deliberately stoic grace of the heroine took the shine from his exuberant strides... Beyond the confined spaces, Solo is markedly different from Surabaya with its cleaner air (there's actually a cool breeze in the evenings), cleaner roads and cleaner (due to the brighter lights, maybe) warungs... and how can I forget the batik shops?

Oh, anyway, if you are wondering about Bengawan Solo, every local whom I asked said that, due to environmental pollution, it's a shadow of its former self ... even the students doing a project on the theme 'Water' declared this.... Haiz....